So I went to Singapore recently to speak on a panel at ITB Asia, a conference dedicated to traveling. Three days of networking, seminars, and talking about travel — actually, I cut out on the last day to actually see Singapore. Laura and I arrived early enough the day before to take in one of the island’s mainstream — but still plenty weird — destinations.
The Haw Par Villa (also called the Tiger Balm Shrine and the Ten Courts of Hell) isn’t quite a hell temple — there’s no ‘temple’ here at all. Calling it a comprehensive almanac of Chinese legends is probably more accurate — but our main interest was in the Ten Courts of Hell. Up we go!
In case you’re wondering, the Tiger Balm mentioned here is exactly the Tiger Balm you’re thinking of — the balm you put on aches and pains (while simultaneously clearing your sinuses). First created by Aw Chu Kin, it was his sons that perfected and marketed it. Once called Ban Kin Ewe (Ten Thousand Golden Oil), the trademark tiger remains a well-known icon. The brothers’ wealth enabled them to give the gift of a mansion and garden to their younger brother, Boon Par, although the mansion was destroyed after World War II. The garden was first opened to the public in 1937 as a way to immortalize moral values from the Chinese legends. Today, these colorful statues and dioramas come accompanied with English signage explaining the legends.
Look, but don’t touch — Boon Haw, the elder brother, apparently used every opportunity to share the tiger brand with the world. For you car buffs, it’s a 1925 Buick Californian Hardtop — while it’s not Boon Haw’s original car, it’s a great replica.
One way you know you’re getting close to the Ten Courts of Hell is some suffering faces…
One of the guardians (simply called a Horse Face on the sign) that would usher in the recently deceased to be judged. They take you to the first court of hell, where King Qinguang reviews your past deeds. If you’ve lived a virtuous life, you cross the Golden Bridge and into paradise. If you’ve lived a good enough life (e.g. where good deeds outweigh bad deeds), you take the Silver Bridge into paradise. Everyone else? Yup — highway to hell.
In the Buddhist mythology, the punishment fits the crime, at least, the crimes as they were perceived a rather long time ago. From the Third Court of Hell, people who escape from prison, disrespect their elders, or who were ungrateful are punished by having their heart cut out. Not pictured here are the drug addicts and tomb raiders, who are sentenced to be tied to a red hot pillar and grilled. Like a steak.
Now in the Fourth Court, tax dodgers, tenants that refuse to pay rent, and business frauds are pounded by a stone mallet (like on the right). Disobeying one’s siblings and not caring for your parents (filial piety) is punishable by being grounded with a large stone (on the left).
It’s about here we get gruesome, and for things that today might not seem so bad. The Sixth Court punishes those who waste food, misuse books, or possess porn by sawing them in two. Cheaters, cursers, and abductors are thrown into a tree of knives.
Note that each Court has plenty more going on — some Court’s dioramas extend well above your head, so look all around to take it in. Seventh Court sufferers that sowed discord amongst their family or started rumors are punished by having their tongue pulled out.
So it’s clear, this is not an exhibit to take the kids to (unless, of course, you want to put some serious fear into them). The Eighth Court punishes those that harm others to benefit themselves with a literal dismembering (as above), while the Ninth Court punishes rapers and murderers by chopping off their heads and arms.
Whatever your punishment may have been, you’ll meet this lady when it’s over — Men Po. You’ll be offered some magic tea that will make you forget your past lives, then enter the wheel of reincarnation — whether you’ll be reborn as human, animal, or insect is based on your past life.
With your education on Chinese mythological hells complete, step outside to discover some rather random sculptures:
This post-Ten-Courts section is completely devoid of signs in any language, and the other sculptures offer no clues as to context. It was only later that I read about the filial piety represented in this picture. Breast milk, apparently, may have been just what the poor, older mother needed to get better. It’s done in the name of filial piety, of course — looking out for one’s parents is the name of the game in Singapore.
Because what’s Tiger Balm without the tiger? Love those eyes, too.
The more time you have, the more you’ll find to see. Walk up the steps and get to a number of larger, longer dioramas.
Those with ADD might do better to skip these dioramas — beyond having a ton of stuff going on, each diorama contains details from several stories. It’s hard to tell where one ends and one begins. In any case, above is a story of a holy monk and three disciples on their quest to obtain Buddhist scriptures during the Chinese Tang dynasty.
Pigsy! This human with a pig’s head was punished after attempting to get frisky with the Goddess of the Moon. It’s a little hard to tell from the panels which stories are related to (or part of) other stories, although he’s someone who successfully completed his quest despite his greed, sloth, and lustfulness.
Once again, I got nothing. The area near the pond seemed more a fanciful place to stick statues and had less to do with religion than elsewhere.
Elsewhere, the virtues, vices, and mores come to be known more plainly. In this tale, Wang Qing bought a tortoise bound for the market and set it free. Years later, the ship he was in sank, but he was saved by the grateful tortoise.
There’s plenty to keep you busy taking pictures and walking for a couple of hours, so wear some comfy shoes and bring some water (only one place near the entrance was selling any). It’s a great quirky start to any trip bound for Singapore.
Name: Haw Par Villa AKA the Tiger Balm Shrine
Address: 262 Pasir Panjang Rd, Singapore 118628, Singapore (GPS: 1.283747, 103.781781)
Directions: From Singapore’s excellent MRT system, get to the Haw Par Villa station on the Circle Line and head out exit A. Walk about 100 meters and you’ll see the unmistakable entrance on the right.
Hours: 9am-6pm (for the Ten Courts of Hell exhibit), 9am-7pm (for the general area)
Admission: free
Phone: (65) 774 0300
Website: no official website
