Called sai yoi (‘Sweeping Banyans’), this creepy-looking forest of 10,000 trees has almost no beginning — and no end.
Also called the Sai Ngam Spirit House or spelled as Sai Ngarm. The pronunciation is a little tricky — merge the two words into one if that helps (roughly: sign-nyam). It might look like the set of a horror movie. With dangling branches that grow in all directions, the seeds sprout in the nooks and crannies of the grown tree. The seed grows, sprouts more seeds, and the cycle begins anew. Today, it’s virtually impossible to tell where one part of the centuries-old tree starts and another tree ends. These interwoven branches end up looking and feeling like one tree.
The Buddha, according to legend, became enlightened under a Bodhi tree, while Hinduism holds the banyan tree to be the resting place of Krishna. Regard this sacred place as you would a temple. The name Sai Ngam was given by Queen Sri Phatcharinthara in 1911, which means ‘Area of the Splendid Banyans’.
Beyond the maze of brick walkways are a number of flooded areas — thank the rainy season for that.
While no place within the forest gets too dark while the sun is out, it’s definitely a shock to the eyes to step out from underneath the shade.
You’re quite likely to brush past some of the dangling branches — yet another opportunity for some interesting photos.
Check out a small temple, complete with your opportunity to shake the cup of sticks and seek your fortune. Either way, escape leave the forest’s other side and take in a bit more beyond the forest.
Several photos of the royal family, including His Majesty the King.
A Muay Thai fighter, anyone?
The sculpture behind the fighter, showing some of the attacks or blocks.
After re-entering the forest, we found a shrine dedicated to the tree’s spirit:
The area might look a little rundown, but that’s common whenever there’s plenty of history.
Once done with the forest, there’s a long row of restaurants and souvenirs for sale. Don’t forget your chances to make merit with any number of fish and aquatic creatures:
It’s an interesting site, but unless you’re coming to Phimai for the historical park or are otherwise sticking around the Nakhon Ratchasima area, it’s probably not worth the long journey. If you are coming to Phimai, however, the historical park (complete with plenty of ruins) and Sai Ngam makes for an interesting day.
Name: Sai Ngam (also spelled Sai Ngarm)
Address: Tambon Nai Mueang, Amphoe Phimai, Chang Wat Nakhon Ratchasima 30110 (GPS: 15.226116, 102.504892)
Directions: The Phimai History Park is an excellent landmark — and it’s relatively close. Head south on Tha Songkran road, then turn left onto Ananthachinda road a couple of hundred meters from the park. Go a few hundred meters to a T — there’s a road that continues straight on. Pass by the Rama IX Commemoration Park on your left, and continue east for about 750 meters. Look for the fork and bear left — the forest is just inside.
Hours: sun up to sun down / dawn to dusk.
Admission: free
Phone: none
Website: tourismthailand.org
