I couldn’t tell you how many temples I’ve been to across Asia. Hundreds, perhaps, across Korea, Thailand, Laos, and Malaysia. I have never seen a temple like this one.
Wat Baan Rai (also spelled Wat Ban Rai or Wat Bahn Rai), this extraordinary temple opened on 1 November 2013. It’s the culmination of three years of work, tons of volunteers, and 20,000,000 pieces of ceramic. Welcome to Wat Baan Rai — an extraordinary plethora of colorful ceramic.
Before heading in, however, take in some of the surroundings — the temple that doesn’t get as much attention anymore now that the focus has shifted to the viharn. Again, the main reason you come here is the Thep Witayakom Viharn — the rest of the temple plays a distant second fiddle, separated from the new construction by a lake.
Just another peaceful place to get away from the crowd — well, sort of.
Like I said, the main reason to come here — a pair of the most extraordinary nagas I’ve ever seen. Cross the bridge and begin to take in the outside of the building:
This bull’s horns are a little too high to grab, but the pictures are easy enough.
Take a closer look at the rather psychedelic skulls — these are individually laid pieces of ceramic.
Like something out of a movie — the horse is symbolic of energy and effort.
I do wish I knew more of the Buddhist traditions and meanings — several people rubbed their 20 baht bills across the image’s muscles before dropping it in the donation box.
Once inside, look right and head downstairs:
Seven colors correspond to the “bright and lustrous precious stones”, which contain “mysterious energy being cherished underwater treasure” [sic]. While it’s rather dark, the sign uses the word horoscope and describes the meanings of the various colored stones… Yeeeeahhh…
The Crocodile King — “an animal that leads to good charisma” that recounts a story about a millionaire that never made merit and became a crocodile in his next life.
The Ananda Giant Fish — “A legendary Giant Fish believed to maintain peace on Earth”.
The Naga King — “the king of water who creates abundance”. Each of these statues features a place to tap your smart card — buy this at the counter at the bottom of the stairs, or before you enter the building. While there wasn’t a bunch of information on how these are used, you can purchase one for at little as 30 baht. Ask at the desk if you’re interested in picking one up — they’re a nice little souvenir.
Now on the 1st / ground floor, there are several epic-sized paintings that absolutely dwarf the humans:
Perhaps 8 meters high and 8 meters wide, they’re wonderfully colorful.
Make your way up the spiral staircase to begin making your way upward — I’ll note this is a ramp if you happen to arrive in a wheelchair.
On your way up, you’ll be surrounded by paintings — some of the standard variety…
…and some presumably of the people that painted them! Keep your eyes out for people with glasses as another sign of modernity. Follow the ramp up to a couple of interim levels which had little to see, then take the stairs or elevator up to the top level:
As someone who’s made it a point to see some of the world’s weirder places, I should point out that this temple goes beyond weird. That said, it’s breathtakingly beautiful, in a way that visiting a historic European cathedral is to a devout Catholic. This teaser video offers a few insights into the construction:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEg45orWdFk
If you’re coming anywhere close to Nakhon Ratchasima, this temple is absolutely worth the visit and the special effort to arrive.
Name: Wat Baan Rai (also spelled Wat Ban Rai, and also called Thep Witayakom Viharn)
Address: Tambon Kut Phiman, Amphoe Dan Khun Thot, Chang Wat Nakhon Ratchasima (GPS: 15.299282, 101.737013)
Directions: You’ll need some wheels to get here, although you might ask around for a songthaew — we saw one parked in in the lot. From Nakhon Ratchasima city, head west on route 2 and go about 14 kilometers to a U-turn. Make the U-turn and turn left onto route 2068. Go about 20 kilometers on this road, all the way to a roundabout. Take the first left onto route 2148 and go another 21 kilometers until you reach Highway 201. Turn right onto the highway 201, then make the next left onto route 2217 and go another 10 kilometers. Begin looking for the elephant and the temple — they’re really the only two landmarks of any size for a kilometer around. Bear right up the side road and head to the parking lot.
Hours: 8am-5pm
Admission: free, but donations are accepted everywhere.
Phone: 044–213–030
Website: watbaanrai.com
