Trujillo (true-HEE-yo), Peru doesn’t get much attention by tourists, even when you’re in Peru. If you’re exploring Peru, however, it makes for a great stop for a few days to rest and travel.
Start with the Museo de Juguete, or the toy museum in central Trujillo. After entering and paying, the creepy dolls are one of the first thing you’ll notice in this three-room museum.
While there are toys from prehistory to the 1950’s, most are from the 20th century – and none of them are for playing with, so kids may not find it all that interesting.
One of many old spaceships behind glass, along with cars and trains.
While far from the biggest model railroad I’ve seen, it’s one of the few sets I’ve seen in Latin America.
It’s a bit further in where the attention turns to local toys from decades past. I’m sure the intent wasn’t to have a stoned-looking doll… but there you go. Another one (which didn’t photograph) well looked even more stoned.
Almost certainly related to the day of the dead holiday, but it’s hard to say for certain.
The last room features some of the older toys from centuries past. Made from straw and wool like some other nearby exhibits, there’s very few notes on when or where places are from.
If you’re near the Plaza de Armas in Trujillo (and if you’re booking any tours for places near the city, this is the place to do it), it’s worth stopping by. It’s rather small and doesn’t offer much information, so I wouldn’t put it too high on the must-visit list.
Name: Museo de Juguete (Trujillo Toy Museum)
Address: 705, Jirón Independencia, Trujillo 13001 (GPS: -8.108307, -79.026635)
Directions: From Trujillo’s Plaza de Armas, look for Jiron Independencia, the road along the north side of the plaza. Follow it northeast for two blocks and look for the museum (along with an associated cafe) on the corner. Head up the stairs to reach the second floor entrance.
Hours: 10:00am-6:00pm Monday-Saturday, 10:00am-1:00pm Sunday
Admission: 5 soles
Phone: (044) 208181
Website: nine
Chan Chan – the restored ancient city
Most people think of Machu Picchu if asked about Peru’s rich archeological remains. Yes, it’s one of the Seven Wonders of the World, but Peru offers plenty of other sites and remains scattered across the country. Chan Chan is a UNESCO World Heritage site about 5 kilometers outside of Trujillo, and is considered the largest pre-Colombian city in South America. (It should also be noted that the city is also on UNESCO’s ‘In Danger‘ list due to natural erosion, and has been since it became a World Heritage.) The government-funded project has spent some serious coin restoring elements of what the city once looked at.
The restoration, however is far from complete. Domes show a smaller version of the area, and signs in front of them show some of the only English information around (you can purchase a Spanish-language booklet for 3 soles at the ticket counter). In this case and a few others, signs are completely missing, barriers are badly placed, and at least one spot has a narrow walkway with no guardrail.
The restoration itself is of the capital of the Chimor Empire, which reigned from 900-1470 AD before being conquered by the Incas. It may have had a population of 40,000-60,000 people, and fell further into the shadows after the Spanish started the nearby city of Trujillo. The excavation work began in 1969, was declared a World Heritage Site in 1986, and a master plan for conservation approved in 1998. As you begin walking the 1.5km from the main road to the entrance, you’ll see plenty of preserved land waiting for the archeologist’s attention.
Something’s coming soon… I hope…
One of the final rooms – the room of 24 niches – most likely had a number of functions in the political and religious worlds. This is one of the only statues in the room, and nothing explained who or what it was.
For all the money that’s gone into this place, I couldn’t tell you what (if anything) we saw that was original. The colors mentioned in the booklet were nowhere to be seen, signage was incomplete or missing, and despite all the room there was very little to actually see. If you’re on a UNESCO World Heritage kick, little of this may matter, but most every other site around Peru features more original archaeological remains.
I should point out that your ticket gets you into a museum and two other sites. The two other sites aren’t within walking distance, while the museum is a mish-mash of disorganization, old exhibits and new signs, and empty rooms. I’m not sure if it’s just in a state of renovation / reorganization, but in it’s current state it’s not worth visiting.
Name: Chan Chan
Address: Along Manische rd. (route 104), Trujillo, Peru (GPS: -8.109720, -79.074968)
Directions: From Trujillo, jump on any red-and-yellow bus or minivan heading to Huanchaco. When paying, tell them you’re going to Chan Chan.
Hours: 9:00am-4:00pm (museum closed on Monday)
Admission: 10 soles for the ticket, 15 soles for optional guide, 3 soles for optional Spanish-language booklet
Phone: (044) 227705
Website: http://chanchan.gob.pe/
The longest mural in South America
There’s so much awesome here that I have a photo essay scheduled for a couple days from now. For now, know that the 3,000 square meters worth of mosaic murals is located along the wall of the Universidad Nacional de Trujillo, and is a great way to spend a late afternoon after the day’s heat has passed.
With over a kilometer’s worth of wall to fill, you’ll notice a number of constant themes: volcanoes, animals, nature, and civilizations across the ages are common ones.
Tens of millions of 1cm x 1cm squares took almost 15 years for the team to put in place – but the results are extraordinary. Again, more pictures coming soon.
Name: The mural at Universidad Nacional de Trujillo
Address: Along Ave. Juan Pablo II and Av. Jesus de Nazareth, starting at the corner of the two roads (GPS: -8.112594, -79.034646)
Directions: once in Trujillo, make your way to the ‘ring road’ in the center of town (Avenida España). From the top of the loop, head southwest, and the road will turn into Ave. Juan Pablo II.
Hours: open 24 hours a day, best visited in the day
Admission: free
Phone: none
Website: http://mural.unitru.edu.pe/
Old-school pots in a dusty, musty basement
Sometimes, the best museums are far from the flashiest. It’s in a rather counter-intuitive place behind a closed gas station, and you might need to knock a few times before it gets opened up for you. Pay the admission fee and be led down into the basement, where almost 2,000 years worth of history await.
The pots are behind some nylon wire, and there’s just enough labeling to go along with the pots. The Nazca pot you see above dates to 200 A.D.
Owls, anyone? These pots date back to 200 AD and are from the Moche / Mochica culture.
There’s also a lot more to the story that’s not on-site, and a lot more in storage that can’t be seen here. We have a man named Jose Luis Cassinelli Mazzei to thank for it, who died in 2012 at 92 years old. He’s been described as a ‘charming old rogue’ who made his wealth with a gas station (possibly the one next door) and acquired pieces from black market huaqueros, or tomb robbers. The issue there, of course, is the lack of context from which the pieces originate.
Supposedly, some 6,000 pieces are now owned by the children of the man, but many of them are in a bank vault in town and off-limits to the public. I dare say the history contained herein deserves a proper home, whether that ends up being a private museum or a government-run museum. While there’s some speculation a new museum is in the works, there’s no indication of movement or recent news about it. For now, some of the nation’s finest pieces of the past remain in private hands.
Name: Museo Cassinelli Mazzei AKA Museo Arqueológico Casinelli
Address: Av. Nicolás de Piérola 607, Trujillo (GPS: -8.1046203,-79.0371101)
Directions: From the ‘ring road’ of Trujillo (Avenida España), head northwest on Avenida Manische for about 500 meters. Bear right to stay on the level road (Av. Nicolas de Pierola), pass the old gas station, and look left for the signs.
Hours: 9:00am-1:00pm and 3:00pm-6:00pm Monday-Saturday (closed Sunday)
Admission: 7 soles
Phone: (044) 246110
Website: none
