Ahh, Siamese Fighting Fish — animals you’re far more likely to see in pop culture than a real life fish fight (they don’t always fight to the death, however). Also known as betta splendens, these territorial fish typically get their own tank (or soda water bottle) to prevent any accidental fighting.
Before we get there, however, let’s back up. Arriving here requires crossing the Chao Phraya river to arrive on the Bangkrachao peninsula, the peninsula that thinks it’s an island. Despite technically being part of Samut Prakan (the river is Bangkok’s southern border), it’s only a few kilometers from the hustling hulk of Bangkok. There’s been very little development here, however — what’s here seems just enough for residents and temporary visitors alike. It probably hasn’t changed too much since the 1970’s…
Cross the Chao Phraya via small boat, which can only take about 5 or 6 people at a time. The 3–4 minute ride is just long enough to catch your breath, and the 10 baht fee is more than reasonable. If you have the day to spare, consider renting a bike to make getting around the peninsula a lot easier — there’s plenty more to see, including the Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park and plenty of greenspace. If you’re really just here for the fish, read on.
The area is also host to a camping ground, event hall, garden, and café — perhaps one reason the area was written up in Time magazine in 2006 and dubbed the ‘best urban oasis’ in Asia. A number of information board tell the story of the area, which at one point boasted it had no police station and no ATM’s (both of which may still be true today, to be fair — bring cash just in case!). Other signs offer details on the fighting fishes, though you have to walk pretty far from where the fish are to learn about them… A clever strategy for ensuring you walk the entire site, perhaps?
An old-school samlor — you’ll still see these used from time to time, though they’ve more or less been relegated to the tourist trade by now.
This newer-looking edition to the campground area does not appear to assist the urban oasis feeling…
The building holding dozens of fighting fish is actually quite close to the entrance, but naturally it was one of the last places we walked around:
Each one in its own bottle — though to be honest these were in need of cleaning / freshening up…
One example of the Veil Tail Betta — a small sign intermingled with the fishes claimed Veil Tail Bettas were not allowed to compete on the show circuit anymore.
The light was not favorable — consider bringing a macro lens for your DSLR, as getting close-ups of these guys is tricky at best.
The second story to this building looked to be closed during our visit, but supposedly offers a short video and some visuals about the fish. Even if we had been able to see that, though, I left feeling a little disappointed. No actual fighting fish, which when combined with the small size of the area, means you’re left feeling like you’ve seen it all in about 15 minutes. Do consider renting bikes and meandering through the peninsula to relax — the urban oasis part of things is a peaceful respite from the Bangkok jungle.
If you’re ready for some more things to do in Bangkok, Claudia’s got some great suggestions.
Name: Siam Fighting Fish Gallery (พิพิธภัณฑ์ปลากัดไทย)
Address: 18/1 Moo 3 Soi Watrajrungsan, Bang Kachao, Samut Prakan 10130 (GPS: 13.700169, 100.562823)
Directions: From the Khlong Toey MRT, head east on Rama IV for 100 meters, then take bus 47 to the bus terminus. Walk towards the pier for about 200 meters, then turn right down a side street. Walk about 75 meters, then head left and walk all the way to the pier.
From Khlong Toei Pier (จังหวัด กรุงเทพมหานคร, GPS: 13.708174, 100.563628), cross the Chao Phraya River via wooden boat (10 baht per person per one-way trip). Rent some bicycles once across if you like, or walk about 500 meters to the four-way intersection. Turn left, walk 75 meters and look for it on your left.
Hours: Saturday and Sunday ONLY from 10am-5pm
Admission: none
Phone: 02–815–0149
Website: fightingfishgallery.com
