Have you ever felt like the lesser-known sibling? Jan Brady to her sister Marcia? Elizabeth Olsen to her sisters Mary-Kate and Ashley? If so, you’ll probably understand how this place would feel — y’know, if places could talk.
Much like the Xieng Khuan Buddhist Park across the river in Laos, the story begins with our man Luang Pu, a priest / shaman aiming to integrate Hinduism and Buddhism into a single religion. That park came first, and construction of the bizarre concrete sculptures began in 1958. After Lao’s revolution in 1975, he fled across the border to Thailand’s border town of Nong Khai and began a second park in 1978. Over the next 20 years, he built or supervised the statues you’ll see today; as he got older, he was supposedly brought in via wheelbarrow to continue supervising. Some are 25 meters tall, but all aim to share the myths and legends behind Hindu and Buddhist beliefs.
There’s more symbolism here than hours of study will entail. The blending of Hindu and Buddhist deities isn’t particularly bizarre, but it’s the arrangment, the quantity, and almost everything else about the place. It’s basically a place to walk around, get photos, and possibly be inspired in some spiritual way…
It’s a very colorful sort of place, which definitely makes the camera happy.
This area is walled off save for the relatively small, toothy opening you see. You can climb though if you don’t find briefly feeling like you’re in a cave, or simply look over the chest-high wall.
One very tall Buddha image, one pair of very large feet.
Simply majestic. It’s worth noting the park is designed as a circle, just like the Buddhist wheel of birth and rebirth.
Since it’s built by the same guy and his followers, expect a fair number of similarities between the two parks. The ones here seem more detailed — dare I say more fanciful? — as if they learned something from construction the first time around. Look to the 3rd floor of the pavilion for Louang Pu’s remains and some of his belongings.
While Thai signs abound, there’s nothing in English to explain anything. That’s the only downer to this place, which is one of the few places worth seeing while in Nong Khai. It’s worth a stop if you’re making a visa run to Vientiane, or are doing the complete tour of Isaan / northeast Thailand.
Name: Sala Kaeoku AKA Wat Khaek (ศาลาแก้วกู่) — also spelled Sala Keo Ku, Sala Keo Koo, Sala Kaew Ku, Sala Kaew Koo, Salakaewkoo, Sala Gaew Goo, and Sala Kaeoku.
Address: An unnamed road off of route 212, Tambon Wat That, Amphoe Mueang Nong Khai, Chang Wat, Nong Khai 43000 (GPS: 17.887103, 102.781401)
Directions: With your back at Nong Khai train station, head left (northwest) for 600 meters until you reach route 2. Turn left onto route 2, make the first possible U-turn after about 300 meters, then go about 7 kilometers. Note route 2 will turn into route 212, and you’ll need to bear right to stay on route 212. After you’ve gone around 7 kilometers, make the U-turn, go 100 meters, and make the first left. Go 600 meters more — the road leads straight to the park.
Hours: 6am-6pm
Admission: 20 baht (both Thai residents and foreigners)
Phone: 081–369–5744
Website: http://sala-saeoku.blogspot.com/
