Visiting the National Palace Museum of Korea has been on my to-visit list for awhile, and I finally found the time to get out that way recently. While polished, pretty, and free, more than a few elements seemed repeated from other museums of the sort. It also seems a misnomer to indicate it’s a “National” museum, when in fact the palaces in question have all been located within a few kilometers of each other in present-day Seoul.
Originally opened in 1992 as the Royal Museum at Deoksugung (Deoksu Palace), it was renamed and relocated to it’s current location in 2005 with a partial collection. The full collection went on display in November 2007 after a complete renovation of all the galleries. It certainly looks fresh and new, without being overly ‘touristy’. Perhaps the average tourist is a Korean from another part of the country as opposed to a foreigner (who would probably be more interested in the nearby palace).
National Treasure #101: a stone stupa built around 1085, during the Silla dynasty. A stupa symbolizes the shape of Buddha in a number of ways, including the square base as his throne.
The National Palace Museum is next door to Gyeongbokgung and also close to Gwanghwamun (the gate for the aforementioned palace). Both are worth visiting, also Gwanghwamun is covered by an interesting façade while currently under construction.
This is also no small museum – with more than 40,000 relics and artifacts to see (not sure how many of those are replicas) spread out over three floors and over 11,000 square meters of permanent exhibit galleries, expect your feet to be moving for a few hours if you want to see it all. While ahead of the curve for family-friendliness (few museums in Korea currently boast a nursing room), there are no kid-friendly activities while the adults enjoy the exhibits. If you need kid-friendly, the Seoul Museum of History is nearby and offers far more for the kids.
A brief look at a now-closed exhibit on the decorative paintings of the Joseon dynasty. Full of rich and deep colors, though unfortunately it was too dark to fully appreciate them through the lens of a camera.
Start your museum tour by picking up an excellent English-language brochure, an audio guide for 1,000 won, then walk past the information desk, lockers, and restrooms to start in the ‘Royal Symbols and Records’ room.
A Royal Edict giving the title of Crown Princess – from 1744.
A 1/3 scale model of the royal throne.
Some different seals of various agencies during the Joseon Dynasty. Each one is different, but the patterns seem quite abstract to the uninformed eye.
From 1605, a certificate of meritorious subjects. If you’re in here you’re probably on the king’s good side.
A certificate of meritorious subject from King Taejong, 1411. Although considered a National Treasure, the one displayed is a replica. The object hanging on the wall is an ‘Authorized Entrance only’ sign from the latter part of the Joseon era.
Instead of walking upstairs to more exhibits, you’ll be walking downstairs to the remainder of the museum.
A picture of Jongmyo – the royal shrine that holds the spirits of royalty after they die. I’ve been here before – nice place, but not a whole lot to see since the spirits apparently like the dark.
The smaller ones were used as liquor containers, while the larger ones (right) were used for boiled cow, pig, or goat internals. Yum.
How would you like this as your dinner table? Even if only for rituals, the amount of tableware is genuinely impressive – and probably more dishes than I currently own.
Keeping records was very important to the Joseon Dynasty – this particular exhibit kept records of shooting arrows with King Jeongjo, from 1792.
The first time I’ve seen a red scroll – on it are the architectural records of Gyeongbokgung’s reconstruction, from 1867.
Two wooden plaques that originally hung in Deoksugung. The top apparently translates to “Encourage Virtues, Trust in Faith”, while the bottom was written by King Yeongjo in 1730.
A broad, panoramic view of Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung, just east of Gyeongbokgung (the main capital). The original is considered a National Treasure, and is from between 1824 and 1830 based on the buildings in the paintings.
Weights and measures using a traditional Korean system (but explained in the metric system for those unfamiliar with ancient Korean measurements).
An astrolabe – great for figuring out the stars.
Several kinds of swords – on the left, the Four Tiger sword , made of iron but inlaid with gold and silver. To it’s right, the Triple Tiger Sword to Guard against malevolent power. The two horizontal ones are ceremonial swords.
Iron clubs with goblin faces – what’ll they think of next?
As you might guess, various clothing for royal women and children.
A look at a dressing room, perhaps – I didn’t see the exhibit’s name. Note the eight-fold screen and the various red lacquered items.
Now you know why Koreans touch or hold their right elbow with their left hand while giving you something – it’s to hold the sleeve up or away from whatever might brush against it to make it dirty. This ceremonial robe was worn by Prince Yeong’s consort during the early 20th century.
And you thought your morning routine was rough. No fewer than nine hairpins in a ‘do fancier than at your prom (or your date to the prom)? Thanks, but no thanks.
An up-close-and-personal look at a few of these pins.
Some wonderful classic automobiles – these carried Emperor and Empress Sunjong… It’s not quite Cadillac One, but for the time it was high technology. The one closer is thought to be from 1914, and one of only three surviving models in the world. The further one is from 1918, and one of only twenty that have survived to this day.
A 3/4 scale replica of a stone chamber holding the placenta of King Myeongjong. Yes, you read that right – the placenta. It, along with the umbilical cord, was preserved for posterity.
Bear in mind that this schedule is for a kid prince – presumably no more than 10 years old. (If you can’t read Korean, 시 means hour, or hour of the day; 3 시 means 0300 or 3AM, and so on in military time).
The writings of King Hyojong regarding “Companionship with His Eight Escorts”, from around 1641. Yeah, if I had eight escorts I might want to write about it as well. The original hanja was helpfully translated into Korean via a note near the glass, but no English…
A huge inkstone in lotus leaf design – imagine dipping your calligraphy brush / pen into something that’s perhaps 2 feet (60 cm) wide.
A look inside the state room during the Great Han Empire, a short-lived empire near the end of the Joseon Dynasty. Note the marble table from France and the vase from the Qing dynasty.
Not exactly portable instruments, meaning you’re not likely to hear them very often.
A slightly larger version – talk about banging on the palace.
When not reigning or meeting with other politicians, King Jeongjo and his officers wrote poetry. This is a collection of poems written while “viewing flowers in the rear garden of Changdeokgung” from 1792. While in hanja again, the Korean translation helps the majority of museum-goers understand.
Poetry and painting – you wouldn’t think kings and officials would be such artists, but apparently they were. This four-fold screen was just one of several, often featuring lotus flowers.
A large, self-striking water clock that sounds a gong, drum, according to a posted schedule. Whoever oversaw the regulation of time supposedly controlled the routines of society and the lives of the people. Interesting technology, and a step up from the sundial during a cloudy day. The bell and drum would ring about 5 times through the day, while the gong rang every 20 minutes during the daytime.
A closeup of the bell ringer – kind of reminds me of a cuckoo clock.
By itself, the museum is worth visiting as a trip through history, and can take a few hours to see thoroughly. While it makes very little mention of the ‘common folk’, it does focus quite nicely on the small minority of Koreans living the palatial life. That things were categorized less by chronology instead of function or by type makes the Joseon Dynasty seem a snapshot in time. That ‘snapshot’ lasted from 1392 to 1910. The audio guide is a wise 1,000 won investment – without it, you’ll be stuck reading the English at the beginning of each room or area; individual exhibits are explained only in Korean. Save Gyeongbokgung for another day, or try to squeeze them both in if you don’t mind being a little overwhelmed.
Directions to the National Palace Museum: take line 3 of the Seoul subway system to the Gyeonbokgung station, one stop past Anguk and the Insa-dong area. Take exit 5 to street level, then look left for the stairs up to the Museum. Admission is free for the calendar year of 2009 in commemoration of “the centennial anniversary of the opening of the first museum in Korea.” Photography is allowed, but don’t use a flash or tripod. Open 9am-6pm, and 9am-7pm during weekends and holidays.
