This weekend was an almost historic coming-together of sorts: North Korea vs. South Korea. The battle was ferocious, and at times I wasn’t even sure if we had a chance. Then I looked up out of my program and realized I was at a soccer game 🙂

Welcome to World Cup Stadium – home of the 2002 World Cup games, but still used today. Opened in 2001, this 64,000 seat stadium was used for some games during the 2002 World Cup, although this stadium wasn’t the only one built. Nine others were built across South Korea, and ten were built across Japan.

Today’s game, however, was not a World Cup game. While the next World Cup isn’t until 2010 in South Africa, qualifying for the World Cup started earlier in 2008. Both North Korea and South Korea had qualified before this match took place, but people still turned out in droves to see the rivalry.


Arriving at World Cup Stadium was relatively easy – but crowded. The subway station, appropriately named ‘World Cup Stadium’, was built well to handle the tens of thousands of fans. Even so, the crowd was almost overwhelming around the subway station. It thinned out somewhat as people started heading towards the stadium or sitting on any of three floors worth of stairs between the subway and the stadium. Thankfully, the elevators were more than large enough to service the crowd.

As is normal with most major sporting events, there was plenty going on beyond the game. Pay a few thousand won to try to kick a ball through one of several holes, or (if you’re of age) try a free sample of beer. Yes, you read that right – free beer at a sporting event. I know, I didn’t believe it either!

One line led to a free sample, while a second line (pictured above) offered a blind taste test.

Since the Korean football team’s official color is red, I figured I’d better wear SOMETHING appropriate. Red bandana, bought outside the stadium: 2,000 won (about $2). Oddball look: priceless.

Before we arrived, my Korean friend and I wondered what sort of delegation the North Korean team would bring. It turned out that roughly an entire section was filled by North Korean spectators – perhaps 200-300 fans all dressed in white shirts with blue flags. Interestingly enough, the image of Korea they portray is of the entire country – not even a line showing the most heavily guarded border in the world.

Across the field was the rabid South Korean fans, unfurling an equally large South Korean flag. These fans were easily the most passionate and noisy fans in a stadium full of passion and noise. It may have had something to do with the fact that those seats were the most expensive in the stadium – 50,000 won (about $50).

Security was noticeable but not overbearing. I haven’t been to a major sporting event in awhile, but some of the rules seemed a little silly – no umbrellas or plastic bottle caps. I received a sticker to reclaim my umbrella (apparently it’s a ‘throwing risk’ from 400 feet away), and the bottle caps were replaced by a piece of sticky yellow tape. You didn’t buy a can of beer – apparently another throwing risk – but some sneaky South Koreans found TP to throw during halftime.

Sorry guys, no cheerleaders here – but the traditionally-robed contingent assisted with the opening ceremonies.

Hey look – a soccer game! The two teams were evenly matched – as you might expect from two teams tied for first place in their division. South Korea was red / salmon, by the way.

Every approach, shot, near-miss, foul or great pass got a reaction from the crowd; they were rarely quiet for long.

A corner kick for the South Koreans – which produced an exciting shot, but no goal.

The game ended in a scoreless 0-0 tie. The South Korean team had some great passing with several good opportunities. North Korea had a couple close class, but not as many opportunities to score.

Want to get married at the World Cup Stadium? There’s a place for you! Actually, weddings are more commonly held in convention centers or halls; less so at churches.

I was struck by how many foreigners found their way to the game. There may have been more foreigners at this game than at any other one place here in Seoul. I brought a Korean friend along, and jokingly asked if she felt like she was in the minority. Even areas of Seoul like foreigner / tourist friendly Itaewon didn’t have as many foreigners tonight.

A fun time, and a cool pin for 3,000 won added to the manbag will make a fun memory.