Note: This blog post has more pictures than the normal ‘Destination’ posts. I took almost 300 pictures at this one site alone, and cut quite a few good ones to keep this post to a manageable length. Fair warning to those on a dial-up or slow broadband connection – and hope you enjoy!
Gyeongbokgung (the “Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven”) has one of the longest and most storied histories of Korean palaces. The story starts in 1395, three years after the Joseon dynasty started. The original main palace (Gyeongbokgung) was completed, and the Joseon dynasty moved their capital from Gaeseong (currently in North Korea) to this palace in Hanyang (now Seoul). Later kings of the Joseon dynasty continued to expand, but the Japanese destroyed the palace during their invasion in 1592.
Fast forward almost 270 years to 1867-68, when the palace buildings were reconstructed (the fifth year of King Gojong – Korean texts refer to the year of a king’s reign as opposed to a four-digit number). The reconstructed buildings formed a massive 330-building complex with 5,792 rooms that stood on 4,414,000 square feet (410,000 square meters) of land. And I though the grounds and buildings were huge as they currently stand today…
In 1895 – just a few decades later – the Empress Myeongseong (wife to Emperor Gojong) was assassinated by the Japanese; the imperial family fled and never returned. By the early twentieth century, only about 10 buildings were left standing by the Japanese occupation – although the Japanese were nice enough (cough cough) to build their own Japanese General Government Building on the grounds.
After the Second World War, this building (ironically) received the surrender by the Japanese, and served as South Korea’s National Assembly for nearly 30 years. Demolition was set for 1995 – the 50th anniversary of the end of World War II and the 600th anniversary of Gyeongbokgung. The Gyeongbokgung area started restoration in 1990, and have been ongoing ever since – it’s not scheduled to be completed until 2009, as a matter of fact. From everything I’ve seen, they’re doing something right – it’s gorgeous, looks authentic, and offers enough to keep you busy for a full day.
“Welcome to the Gyeongbokgung” – it doesn’t sound grammarically correct – but when you correctly interpret gung as ‘palace’ – ‘Welcome to the Gyeongbok palace’ sounds better 🙂
After getting off the subway, I saw a portion of the ceremony that (ceremonially) opened and closed the gates / gate guard change. First practiced in the early 15th century, a brochure from a nearby stand explained the movements, and even laid out each person’s position on a map in front of the palace (which is also where most of this information comes from!)
The first beat of a huge drum saw the ‘daytime’ guards complete their own manuevers.
After a second round of drum beats, the guards move to the main pavilion.
After finishing some military honors ceremonies, they hand over duties such as an entrance and exit book.
Before long, the ‘daytime’ and ‘nighttime’ guards perform the changing procedure and depart under the supervision of the the commander.
The first gate you enter through – simply beautiful.
While in the first courtyard, you’ll cross a bridge that might have crossed over a water system. These days it’s dry, but the animal you see symbolically looks / guards the area.
After entering past Heungryemun (the first main gate into the first courtyard of sorts), there are several columns of stone markers.
I enjoyed the visual effect of the pillar getting smaller and smaller into the distance.
Geunjeongjeon – the second major building you’ll come across walking straight from the main gate.
A horse(?) stands guard over the staircase leading up to Geunjeongjeon.
Inside Geunjeongjeon – while you can’t enter it, you can see an “exhibition on the revival of life in the palace” – complete with Royal Throne, which is pictured above.
An admittedly artsy shot – one of the rings outside Geunjeongjeon with obvious grooves either way the ring swung.
Looking out towards Sajeongjeon (another building in the palace complex) with Bugaksan (Bugak mountain) in the background.
Wait… a cat?… guarding yet another of Geunjeongjeon’s staircases? Not pictured was a rooster on another staircase.
No touristy destination would be complete without a souvenir stand. Just off to the right were some fairly discreet drink machines, along with a lady selling bottles of water for 600 won (about 60 cents).
Hyangwonjeong (the pond) and Geoncheonggung (the palace) served as a separate palace for King Gojong and his ‘consort’. In other words, when the King wanted to get frisky with his lady, this is where he would take them. It must’ve been great to be King…
The ceiling of one of the open buildings. It’s almost too colorful in nature – the recently-restored buildings use eye-popping colors that are as bright (or brighter) than those originally used.
A number of smaller buildings in the background contributing to an overall scene of lots of buildings.
Even with a map and lots of signs around, it’s still relatively difficult to match the name of the building with the actual building. This is one of those cases, though I’m pretty sure it’s called Jagyeongjeon – where the mother of King Heonjong (Queen Dowager Jo) lived.
In the distance I see the pagoda rising, although I can’t quite see what else is around it until I get closer:
The National Folk Museum is not only located on the Gyeongbokgung grounds, but offers free admission through the end of 2008. It’s early history section is complete with plenty of authentic-looking replicas, but very few authentic pieces from the era. Complete with LCD monitors built into information panels, projectors in the ceilings projecting brief directions onto the floor (which a few kids enjoyed stomping on). English is on every sign, and virtually every area of the museum has an explanation in English. It sounds like a little thing, but being able to see something and understand it is a wonderful thing.
The top of a twelve-sized pillar showing Chinese astrological timetables and the twelve animals of Chinese astrology. I’m a dog (born in 1982), for the record.
The lobby of the National Folk Museum of Korea.
Where’s Waldo? Haha – just a closeup of the previous picture.
Walking into the first area of the Folk Museum – four Korean cars grace us with their presence. Pictures were allowed, as long as they didn’t use a flash or a tripod.
Some examples of hangeul (the Korean alphabet invented by King Sejong in the 15th century) as described by using the popular Chinese characters of the time.
A few hundred years ago, the ideology of Confucian belief indicated that the real world reflected what was happening in the astronomical world. Therefore, charts similar to these were made to help people understand the astronomical world better. Consider these like your horoscope today: Much success will come of you today, but be ready for what lies ahead…
Two royal costumes during the Goguryo period (5th and 6th century). The king’s robe was called ochaebok (robe of five colors), and believe it or not actually wore a girdle – presumably to ensure the queen didn’t see him sneaking too many snacks…
At this point, we enter Gallery number 3 in the Folk Museum – all about the ‘Korean Life Passages’ and traditions from centuries ago.
A representation of the ‘Bridal Room’ – where things were decorated with ‘auscipious paterns’ such as flowers, birds, and butterflies. These symbolized “everlasting love and conjugal harmony”. Don’t let the plain look fool you – I’m sure these Koreans knew how to enjoy their ‘conjugal harmony’.
It’s time to play that famous game – what the *#%! is it? Here’s a hint before you scroll down – it’s part of the ‘Korean Life Passages’ exhibit; we’re at the National Folk Museum in Korea, and this is one of the first exhibits in the gallery. Give up?
The Placenta Chamber (taesil in Korean) was believed to carry the baby’s vital energy; royal or noble households would be buried in a special underground chamber on a special day chosen by divinity.
A child’s first birthday was considered a special occasion – a chance to begin foretelling the future of the child. A special table was prepared with a number of objects; whichever object the child picked first was believed to foretell the child’s future. If the child chose the money or grain, they would emerge a very rich person; choosing a book or a writing brush meant they would become a scholar or official; an arrow or bow meant they would become a general in the military.
Getting married was a big deal a few centuries ago. Parents would arrange marriages between their son and daughter, and the wedding ceremony would be held at the bride’s parents’ house. On the wedding day, the soon-to-be husband would bring a goose carved of wood to show his everlasting fidelity. The new couple would then share wine from a gourd cup – part of me wonders if this helped things in the ‘Bridal Room’…
Although the picture came out a little dark (no flash allowed in the museum), the palanquin is what the bride rode from her parents’ house to her new husband’s house. Underneath the bride’s cushion were charcoal and cotton seeds, which were believed to scare off bad luck and ensure fertility. I pity the, um, slightly larger Korean lady trying to FIT into this little thing. The kid on the right side of the picture shows how small this thing is. Unless she was about 5 feet tall (which, admittedly, she probably was) she would’ve been stuck in the fetal position for most of the trip.
Tracing one’s lineage through your fathers and forefathers was part of filial piety and defining the family pedigree. Since the eldest son was expected to carry on the ancestral rites, a lineage chart helped carry on the traditions and family names. The chart in the museum traces the family through 11 generations (the darker circle being the eldest son, who was the one expected to carry on the family traditions).
Civil service examinations were the way for one to work for the government – passing one would lead you to an appointment in a government post and bring honor to you and your family.
A Sedan chair for a high official – while it may look like a glorified unicycle, these chairs were used by high-ranking officials during the Joseon era and carried by five or more men. Who cares if it looks ridiculous as long as people know you’re powerful?
When a book about acupuncture and moxibustion became popular in the early 17th century, it was combined with herbal medicine as the way for getting better. When these didn’t work, it was time for more… supernatural means.
Exorcism were once used for curing smallpox and measles here in Korea – and shamans were on hand to treat them. Their main goal was to appease the spirits governing these diseases in the hopes of curing or preventing them. The fan and rattles that the shaman holds are part of the rite, called hogu-gut.
On a brighter note, the 60th birthday was (and to this day, still is!) considered an auspicious day. It supposedly took 60 years to traverse all parts of the zodiac, and was celebrated with a huge feast by their sons, daughters, and grandchildren. Everyone younger wished the new sixty-year-old a long life, gave them wine, and pledged their obedience to them for as long as they lived.
Of course, life didn’t go on forever. When death came, a bier (pronouced ‘beer’) would carry the body to the burial site. This might look rather elaborate, but traditional burial ceremonies in America are actually quite similar in nature – both are objects carried by a number of pallbearers to the body’s final resting place. A child’s responsiblity to his/her parents didn’t end though. For three years after a parents death, a child was expected to mourn their parents death as described in the Confucian ethical code. Meals were to be offered every morning and evening – even to this day, it’s considered quite improper to stab chopsticks into food, since that was only done for food offered to ancestors.
The aforementioned morning and evening meals were to be placed on tablets and chairs. The poor children were expected to wear mourning clothing and refrain from any ‘merriment’ during this time. Even after the formal mourning period was over, they were still expected to honor their filial duties throughout their lives. If it’s any bright side, kid, your kids will be doing the same for you after you pass on…
Gallery 3 – all about the Korean lifestyle and lifecycle – reminded me greatly of the Gwangju Folk Museum. I would guess the same curator or designer had a large part in designing both exhibits. They did an excellent job on both, although they are quite similar in many areas. It’s pretty safe to say that once you see one, you can pretty safely skip the other.
The gate to one of the brand new buildings. It was closed, and no door was open to let you see the other side…
Parujeong Pavilion – part of the Jibokjae building about as far from the main entrance as you can get. By now, many of the buildings are beginning to look similar, but this one stood out – apparently, these buildings were used as a library and a reception hall for foreign envoys.
A locked door – but with enough width to investigate…
Called a “Jars Terace”, the larger jars held soy sauce; the medium jars were for salted fish, while the smaller ones were for soybean paste. Gotta get that protein somehow…
The previously mentioned Geoncheonggung (palace for King and his ‘consort’) – complete with the bridge to get out there. Not pictured is the ‘KEEP OUT’ sign in multiple language and the chain rope to deter anyone from seeing it up close and personal. I noticed a lot of young couples sitting around the pond / lake – certainly a peaceful to sit down and cuddle or make the typical googly-eyes at each other…
A wind streamer – considered Treasure no. 847. Only one or two authentic (read: non-recreations) that remain, it’s purpose was to measure the wind speed and direction from a flag that flew overhead.
Overall, Gyeongbokgung features a lot of restored buildings – and even more were in the process of being restored. Shining and gleaming in the sun, the restorations were complete with bright eye-popping colors. I’m sure the restorations followed old construction techniques and are very authentic when compared to the real thing. Considering the aforementioned history, it stands to reason that there would be nothing left of the original structure.
How to get to Gyeongbokgung:
Take the Seoul subway to the Gyeongbokgung station on line 3, then take exit 5. Follow the corridors and stairs up to street level, and you’ll see the palace to your right.
