Author’s note: As a general rule, I don’t usually write a ‘Destination’ about the same place twice (see my previous post on Geumgang Park). My last visit being two years and two cameras ago, I found some parts of this park that I haven’t previously visited. Hope you enjoy.
Geumgang Park offers a full day of exploration – from a large park to the amusement rides, a cable car to a fortress, there’s plenty to take in. I came here during one of my first visits to Busan by myself; this time, the Lady in Red and I went together to enjoy ourselves.
Located near the bottom of 금정산 (Mt. Geumjeong), Geumgang Park offers more than enough to see and do for a day. A Folk Art Museum and the Busan Marine National Marine Museum beckon in case the weather is acting up, although the beautiful day beckoned us to explore.
The older amusement park offered several rides, although even on a Saturday afternoon there were very few people around. Not pictured is an ‘Indiana Jones’ ride that looked a bit worse for wear.
We headed up to the cable car for the five-minute ride to the top of the mountain:
The view from the ride is a reminder of how large this city is, as well as how compact things are. 6,000 won gets you the round trip, and a sign outside the bottom office gives enough stats for the math-lovers (e.g. total distance: 1,260 meters; 540 meters above sea level; breaking strength of main rope 280 tons per meter).
Once at the top, it’s time to head out. A small Korean restaurant offers a few drinks and snacks, but you’re better off getting your supplies before heading up.
As mentioned before, an adequate system of signs exist to direct hikers to a number of sights. This one, however, stands out from the rest:
The sign for 휴정암 (Hyujeongam) assures us the temple is a mere 150 meters away. The walk is easy enough, and the sights are glorious:
The Bodhisattva holds a jar, although nothing is around to explain the statue.
The sign says 불전함 (which doesn’t directly translate in Google Translate – anybody?), but one of the keepers made bows to this statue during our time here.
One of several statues in the rock. Not being a Buddhist scholar, I don’t claim to understand its meaning. It seemed out of the way, and presented itself as the sort of thing you’d only see if you were really looking for it.
A secret village
While making our way to Geumjeong Fortress (금정산성), we took a side trail that led down to a village where it seemed we were the first visitors in weeks. Some games of jokgu (족구, like soccer volleyball) were being played, while several people kept busy working in outdoor restaurants. Sorry, but Korean food is the only game in town.
If you enjoy feeding the koi, this is a great place to do it. If you’re looking for some raw fish to eat, there’s too many people around to grab them – sorry.
With little to keep us in the village, we hiked the path to the fortress gate:
Welcome to 금정산성 (Geumjeongsanseong, or Geumjeong mountain fortress). Rewind the clock a few centuries; China has invaded Korea, as has Japan. You’ve made national defense a high priority, especially from attacks coming from the sea. Construction of the fortress began in the early 18th century during King Sukjong’s reign, but fell into disuse because it was so large. It was restored in 1807, though. Destroyed during the Japanese occupation, this south gate was restored with two other gates in 1974; the north gate was restored in 1989. There are 17 kilometers worth of fortress walls to explore, but the hike to the gate just about finished us off. After a rest, we headed back to the cable car and towards the exit.
Although the Busan Marine National Marine Museum was closed, the outside part revealed an unusual thing to see outside a Marine Museum:
The Lady in Red decided to hang onto the tail as though she was trying to ride it.
As already mentioned, Geumgang Park has plenty to see for a full day at the park. If you’re ready for a jimjilbang (day spa) after all the hiking, there are several to choose from in the area around the entrance.D
Directions to Geumgang park: Get to Busan – buses and trains galore will get you there from virtually any corner of Korea. On the Busan subway system, take line 1 to the Oncheonjang station and take exit 1. Turn left and walk along the sidewalk until you see a pedestrian overpass. Cross the street and keep going in the same direction. At the traffic light take a right. Walk straight until you come to a five-way intersection. Take the way that’s most straight and keep walking. When the road forks a couple hundred meters later, bear left. Walk to the flashing yellow light, and stay straight. At the top of the hill the road comes to a T. Turn right, then walk about 50 meters and cross on the street. The park should be on your left. Opens 8 or 9am, closes 5 to 8pm, depending on the season.
Directions to Hyujeongam temple: enter the park, ride the cable car to the top, and hike as though you’re going to 남문 (nam-mun, or the South Gate). Follow the signs for about 400 meters until a sign leads you left to the fortress – another sign to the right will indicate 휴정암 (Hyujeongam) is 150 meters away. Walk 150 meters to the entrance; for the best view of the mountains and the temple, climb up the STEEP stone stairs to the right as you enter.
Did you donate any money, Chris? 🙂
불전함 = Donation Box
PS: I'm glad I found your blog. Well written and extremely entertaining. Kudos to you!
Zip