Shopping in Korea usually makes for an interesting story. On one hand you have lots of cutting-edge, state-of-the-art gimmicks designed to awe you into the store. The skyscrapers will have every kind of fancy clothing you want – provided you can pay or negotiate your deal to a good deal.

On the other hand, there are a number of older markets that see few tourists because they haven’t exactly been fixed up for them. These markets may have the same maze / labyrinth of market avenues may not have changed much since the first tents went up in the area. The Jongno and Euljiro area (near Dongdaemun) is one such older area. Although some improvements have been made, it can’t quite compare to the more alluring story and buildings of Dongdaemun.

It should be noted that mentioning a specific place would be difficult, thanks partially to the maze of both underground and aboveground shops. Directions to get you started will be at the end of the article (like always), and everything else is in the area. Also, many markets merge with one another yet have different names on their signage. It’s not meant to confuse (hopefully); just accept that a given area is known more by what’s sold there than it’s given name.

Starting in Gwangjang market (광장시장), I quickly found myself entrenched in the middle of the market. As with most older / traditional Korean markets, a little bit of everything is available – and usually right next to each other.

This particular area seemed to have the monopoly on bolts of fabric and clothing accessories. If you’re looking to make some clothing / costumes in Seoul, this might be the place to start.

A nice compromise – the high roof brought natural light and the open air feel to an otherwise outdoorsy area. Note the streets and the brick buildings that have been joined together by the high roof.

Rice cakes and lots of Korean food, hand-made, pre-packaged, and ready to go.

Patches. Lots and lots of patches – some in English, along with flower or abstract designs.

Military-style outfits, sweatpants, and various outdoor equipment for the outdoorsy person or the camper in you.

Bedding stuff running the gamut from cute and cuddly to fancy and frilly.

I haven’t seen this many fans together in one place since last year’s World Cup qualifier against Nrth Korea.

Good luck getting to that stuff on the back wall. I shudder thinking about having to clean the place….

Purse handles, thread, and even some yarn.

Fur and coonskin caps along the street.

A fairly typical – if overwhelming display of new bags of all shapes and sizes. There’s a wall back there somewhere…

Even Buddhists need clothes – this place appeared to sell the fabric and make outfits for a price.

Your classic hanbok – traditional Korean wear – often custom / tailor made using the fabric and colors of your choice.

Down the street from where I started – the Chungbu / Jungbu market. I hate it when the English and the Korean disagrees.

Quite a few ties for sale – some more daring than others. Flower ties, anyone?

In one of the underground shops near Hullyeonwan park – rollerskates and rollerblades.

Lots of lamps and lampshades – not pictured just down the street were plenty of light fixtures and light bulbs.

A collection of all things metal – this place (and several others like it) appeared to be able to make / weld what you sought on the spot.

While charming and traditional, it’s a real shame this doesn’t get seen by most tourists. They might initially be put off by the lack of English or the maze-like quality to the area that probably endear it to the locals. If you’re willing to get a little off the beaten track, or just want to see some of the quirky stuff that Koreans sell, come and get your fill. It’s also a cheap place to get some Korean food for lunch / dinner right next to the shopkeepers. How’s that for blending into the culture?

Directions to Jongno / Euljiro: Take the Seoul subway station to the Euljiro-3-ga station on lines 2 or 3, or the Jongno-3-ga on lines 1, 3, or 5. Once you’ve arrived, search for the underground markets – there are several – or just meander around the area at street level. Again, the entire area is a market. Buses 201, 260, 262, 270, 271, 1001, and 9301 all stop here as well.