East in Seoul in the nearby city of Guri, past royalty is buried. Six kings and nine queens (along with a posthumouly declared king and queen) are buried in a series of nine tombs, thus explaining the name 동구릉 (동 = dong, or east; 구 = gu, which can mean nine or old; 릉; royal tombs). While the earliest tomb dates back to 1408, at least one tomb was under construction or renovation during the trip. These particular tombs are part of UNESCO ‘World Heritage Site’ which was awarded earlier this year; other tomb clusters exist in Goyang (northwest of present-day Seoul), and Namyangju (east of present-day Seoul).
After arriving and paying a 1,000 won admission fee (about $0.80 USD), pick up a brochure in Korean and English, then hit the trail. From the map you can see a vague loop of sorts, which helps in keeping track of where you’ve been – after the first few they all begin to run together.
Start by admiring the creek that runs in and throughout the area; at times you’ll cross it while at times it runs parallel to the trail.
More than a few trees were supported or propped up in some way. This is definitely an older and varied forest – most trees had a label on them, both protecting them in some way and giving some informaiton about them.
Not a tomb, but the 재실 (jaesil) or the tomb keeper’s house. Used as the place where memorial ceremonies are held, temporary housing for the M.C., and office space for the caretakers, this isn’t just a empty house with some ceremonial stuff on display.
Probably the first house on display that’s actually shown a modern-day practical usage. Not pictured are a couple gentlemen at their desks eating some lunch.
Cross over the creek at one of it’s widest parts to come to what you might call the trail head.
I’ve seen wrapped trees before – presumably to protect them from the elements they can’t help but live in – but this looks so… unnatural… Isn’t there a better way?
Finally making it to the first tomb’s sign – a good example of how signs should be, in my humble opinion.
Unfortunately, the tomb itself was not to be seen, thanks to this roadblock. I could’ve probably crossed without anyone knowing… but there are 8 other tombs on display here… onward we go.
This is better. The tomb is named 혜릉 (Hyereung), where Queen Sim (r. 1720-1724) is buried. The brochure gives some historical details about their lives, but those details are definitely sanitized for tourism purposes. The building you see is called a 정자각 (jeongjagak), where the ritual ceremonies were held. The path of rock has two levels; the high one, called a 신도 , and a low one called a 어도. The actual tomb itself is cordoned off and high on a hill, so the far off view is the best us non-press photographers can do.
An example of a building to the right of the 정자각 (jeongjagak), called a 비각 (bigak). The 비각 is a building containing a stone tablet for each person buried there. Note the modern fire extinguishers that would be seen everywhere (I did my best to avoid including them in the photography after this shot!)
A maxed-out-zoomed-in look at the tomb of 경릉 (Gyeongneung). This is the only tomb here to have three mounds – King Heonjong (who became King at 7 and married Queen Kim at 11), Queen Kim (who unfortunately died at the ripe old age of 16) and Queen Hong (the King’s second wife whom he married at 18 years old – and you thought your teenage years were difficult). After ruling for 15 years, the King died at the also ripe age of 22, while Queen Hong went on to outlive him by 50 years. She was the last member of the royal family to be buried in Dongguneungafter dying in 1903.
A look at the 정자각 (jeongjagak) for Gyeongneung – and a look up at the ceiling. Instead of posting pictures of every building, I’m just posting a few of each for comparison purposes.
The creek, running along the main walking path. While typically made of dirt or stone, it was pretty easy walking. More than a few strollers and wheelchairs were out as well. Be sure to pack your insect repellant – the insects here were more than a little bothersome.
This one, however, was nice enough to cooperate with the camera.
The views of the tombs are getting better and better here – it has something to do with how high the tomb was built from what is now considered ground level. This tomb is called 원릉 (Wolleung – and don’t get me started on the Romanization, I’m just copying from the signs), and is where King Yeongjo and Queen Kim. King Yeongjo came to power after his half-brother died, possibly after eating a salad poisoned by Yeongjo himself. His reign of 52 years was the longest during the Joseon Dynasty, but is supposedly remembered for accusing his own son of treason and killing him as a result.
The tomb of 휘릉 (Hwireung) – impossible to see or even get close to since the 정자각 (jeongjagak) is being rebuilt. Queen Jo, the second wife to King Injo, is buried here, while the King and his first wife are buried elsewhere.
The tomb of 건월릉 (Geonwolleung) – home to King Taejo, the first King of the Joseon Dynasty and the earliest tomb here. As a general in the previous Goryeo Dynasty, he overthrew their rule because of corruption of the government – kind of makes me wonder how he’d look at things today…
The tomb of 몽릉 (Mongneung) – and the best picture of an actual tomb thus far. It helps that they’re not as far away and not as high. Holding King Seonjo (r. 1582 – 1608) Queen Uiin and Queen Inmok in individual mound, the three tombs are spread out across a wide valley – even a panoramic picture couldn’t get all three tombs in the same shot.
Queen Uiin’s tomb (think ‘Wii-in’) – King Seonjo’s first wife, who was unfortunately childless.
FINALLY – the best picture of a tomb to come from this camera without traipsing over any unpermitted boundaries. Still at the first tomb of 몽릉 (Mongneung), which holds three bodies, three sets of statues and three mounds along the three axes of a Y.
The other tomb at 몽릉 (Mongneung), which holds Queen Inmok’s body. She became Queen after Uiin died, but her son was killed and she deposed as the next King (Gwanghaegun) came to power. After Gwanghaegun was overthrown by King Injo, she was restored as the Queen Mother.
As for King Seonjo’s tomb? Compared to the other two, it was much harder to see and looked nowhere as large.
Flowers are such patient subjects.
After completing the loop and attempting to see every tomb, it was time for a break. 3.5 kilometers is the official length, and it felt every bit of that. The walking path is fairly easy, but seeing all the tombs will require at least a couple hours. It’s still a unique site, and is very deserving of the UNESCO blessing. Since it’s still very new, I’ll withhold any comment about there not being a sign showing such recognition. Go for the nice walk, the quiet and removed feeling from the rest of the world, or to learn something of Korea’s history – you’ll be pleased any way.
Directions to Donguneung: The easiest way would be to take a bus from Cheongryangni station (line 1 of Seoul’s subway system) that will stop at Dongguneung. Look for buses 1, 1-1, 1-5, 1-6, or 92 headed that way. A bus from Danggogae (line 4’s northern terminus) also runs to Dongguneung.
The way I went was to travel to Guri using the Jungang line and getting off at the Guri subway station, then took a local bus at a bus stop just outside the subway station (local buses 2 or 6 will get you there). Admission fee is 1,000 won for adults and 500 for kids from 7-18. The trail is gravel and dirt, so stroller and wheelchair accessible, and one of the 정자각 (jeongjagak) has a wheelchair ramp; otherwise, you’ll be navigating grass or uneven rocks.
