Phichit isn’t your typical tourist destination — in fact we didn’t see a single tourist while traveling across the town. Most likely founded in the 11th century, it was called Sa Luang during the Sukhothai period (1238–1350). During the Ayutthaya period (1350–1767), it was renamed to Okhaburi — the city in the swamp. Even as the place where a king was born and the Thai legend Kraithong was formed, this province of over half a million obscure is still rather obscure to us non-Thais.
Bueng Si Fai (บึงสีไฟ)
At 4,800 acres or 12,000 rai, this swamp (lake?) is where the fish get it on. The tourist brochure calls it a fish breeding ground with plenty of lotuses. Although you’re not going to be seeing much fish humping, head inside the main building here first.
Complete with a few statues of crocodiles, this two-story building offers quite a few species of fish in their own tanks. Identification is a bit difficult on these unlabeled tanks, and frankly the glare made getting good shots rather difficult.
Head up to the small second floor for some photo ops, including this guy. The roof is open to get a higher perspective, and there’s also a tiny sandy beach with a couple of swings.
To be honest we were a little underwhelmed by this one building, but our research suggested there was a bit more around the lake as you go. This proved to be true:
The Phaya Chalawan statue (รูปปั้นพญาชาละวัน). At first glance, it struck us as just another statue — we didn’t learn until later there’s actually a meeting room inside the crocodile’s stomach. How’s that for an interesting place to have your meet corporate presentation…? The 38-meter long croc is sitting in front of the long walkway below, at the northeast corner of the lake:
Walk down the pier to feed some fish or simply take in the large swamp / lake. It’s peaceful enough, and a fine place to relax for a few minutes. While you can walk from the aforementioned aquarium to this pier, you’ll want to drive from one place to the next.
Your last stop involves the Chaloem Phra Kiat Aquarium — head south along the lake’s edge. It’s the other building you see in the distance, just above the statue’s head.
Another photo op with crocs in… Hawaiian shirts? Well, sure, I guess… Not pictured as you head in are bags of tiny fish and a donation box — if you feel like making some merit, leave a donation, grab a bag, and release some fish.
Plenty more fish around here as well — and a large opening to the lake in the center of the building means you can feed the fish in the pond after seeing the fish in the tanks. Buy some fish food next to the opening (a mere 5 baht
The verdict: not that weird, but still worth the visit.
Wat Rong Chang (วัดโรงช้าง)
While it’s not evident today, this temple used to be a rest area of elephants and mahouts (elephant handlers). Today, there are three large giant Buddha images of different poses (Subduing Mara, Reclining and Restraining) and an underground room storing 84,000 tablets of the Buddhist Scripture. This ‘secret’ room is off-limits, unfortunately, so you’ll have to settle for an above-ground version.
The ‘Subduing Mara’ pose, so named to show the Buddha’s steadfastness while being tempted by Mara with demons and daughters.
The reclining pose — if his right hand supports his head, he’s resting; if it’s laying next to his body, he’s entered nirvana.
As previously mentioned, the underground / ‘secret’ room protects a copy of the 84,000 Buddha scriptures — an offline backup, if you will, in case the world goes to pot. A close-up, you ask for? Here you go:
While most of these still looked to be readable (if you read Thai), more than a few were worn, cracked, or otherwise not preserved all that well.
The verdict: not that weird, but still worth the visit.
Wat Pho Prathap Chang (วัดโพธิ์ประทับช้าง)
Presenting a centuries-old Takhian (Malabar ironwood) tree measuring 7.6 meters in diameter — “the arm length of seven people” as the brochure reads. Used by King Narai as a camping ground for his troops, this temple is also where King Suea (AKA King Sanphet VIII) was born. Constructed from 1699–1701, it’s unclear from the site how the site came to be destroyed (or more likely abandoned). It was in 1935 when it was registered as a National Monument by the Fine Arts Department, and the area has been restored to some extent in more recent decades. I should note the women’s clothing and shoes in the cabinet to the left of the tree — the spirit inhabiting the tree must enjoy the offering…?
Much like some of the formerly glorious buildings seen in Ayutthaya, you can walk through and on the site itself.
The first thing you’ll see from the main entrance is the ubosatha, or the ordination hall. The Buddha image inside makes for a great silhouette — from inside it’s a bit more visible, but I dislike disrupting the devout with what ends up being a pretty loud shutter.
Found on either side of the ubosatha, the twin stupas (monuments that usually contain a Buddhist relic) show a bit of wear and tear. A quick protip for future renovations: just because there’s a pair of similar statues doesn’t mean you can just copy and paste the signs (the other set has a bit more damage, which is mentioned on both signs).
Verdict: not weird at all, but some nice history.
While we didn’t get to them during our visit, you might also want to check out The Old City Park (อุทยานเมืองเก่าพิจิตร), which holds statues of the ‘Kraithong’ legend, Tham Chalawan (ถ้ำชาละวัน), a cave with more to the legend. There’s also the Khao Phanom Pha Gold Mine (เหมืองแร่ทองคำเขาพนมพา), which we approached but looked to be about as untouristy as it comes… Getting around town is pretty easy on a bike, but there are also tuk-tuk’s around as well.
Name: Bueng Si Fai (บึงสีไฟ)
Address: Along the Bueng Si Fai lake, just south of route 115, Mueang Phichit District, Phichit Province (GPS: 16.428039, 100.339791)
Directions: The lake is often used as a landmark; for orientation, the park follows the lake in roughly the shape of a ‘7’. To follow the post, start west with the above GPS coordinates, then head east and later south.
Hours: 9am-6pm on weekdays, 9am-7pm on weekends.
Admission: free
Phone: 056–514–982
Website: https://www.tourismthailand.org/Attraction/bueng-si-fai
Name: Wat Rong Chang (วัดโรงช้าง)
Address: just off route 1068, Tambon Rong Chang, Amphoe Mueang Phichit, Chang Wat Phichit 66000, (GPS: 16.426419, 100.289666)
Directions: From Bueng Si Far, jump back onto (or into) your wheels) and head north to route 115. From the giant crocodile, it’s about 200 meters to the north — turn left (west) onto route 115. Go 3.8km to the roundabout, then take the first left onto route 1068. Go about 3.5km and look for the temple on the left.
Hours: not posted (assume early morning to mid-evening)
Admission: free
Phone: none
Website: none
Name: Wat Pho Prathap Chang (วัดโพธิ์ประทับช้าง)
Address: just off route 1300, Tambon Pho Prathap Chang, Amphoe Pho Prathap Chang, Chang Wat Phichit 66190(GPS: 16.302818, 100.315734)
Directions: From Wat Rong Chang, get back to route 1068 and turn left (south). Go a little over 9km, then turn left to stay on route 1068 and go another 6km. Turn left onto route 1300 and go a little over 4km — it’ll be the first right just after crossing a river. After turning right, look for the temple on the right.
Hours: not posted (assume early morning to mid-evening)
Admission: free
Phone: none
Website: none
