I really liked the temple, but thought Seokguram was a little disappointing, but this might be because it was freezing cold and the buses don't seem to run all that frequently.

If you are ever in Chungbuk-do then Guinsa (구인사) is a worth checking out. Admittedly it's not all that serene, but the colours and location make it worthwhile!

Not when I went to Bulguksa. We didn't have to wait to go in, but we were part of a stream of people going through the gates. There were just people and noise everywhere, everyone ignoring the no pictures signs. It just didn't seem like a temple at all. You had to look up at the ceilings of the buildings and cover your ears to remember where you were. And I didn't even see any monks.

There were, however, vending machines, a gift shop and little kiosks selling food, drinks and ice creams. It was the last thing I wanted to see, and it's meant I've never been particularly interested in going back. Personally, the history is only one reason I go to a temple. Mainly I go because of what they are now; beautiful, peaceful, functioning temples that seem to be separate from the hectic Korean lifestyle but definitely a part of the land.

Having seen your photos, I might be more inclined to go back again when I'm next in Korea. It certainly looks more appealing to be able to wander around at will rather than always being part of a crowd. thanks for the pictures and the write-up!